Tricks of the Trade: How to make ‘chinita’ eyes look bigger and more defined

Hi, Kelly, I am chinita like you and I really want to know how to make my eyes look bigger with makeup. Please help.

Makeup can be a little tricky; what works for one may not necessarily work for another. Of course, we all have different makeup needs and, ultimately, it’s a matter of accentuating certain parts of the face. In your case, it’s how to make your chinita eyes appear bigger. This is something I sought to learn early on in my modeling career, as I also wanted my eyes to look more defined. And so I paid attention to the makeup artists who transformed my face during shoots and tried my best to apply their techniques. After much practice, I realized that getting that defined eye is not so difficult. It simply requires the right tools, makeup and, of course, practice.

I’ve found that the smoky eye really makes eyes appear bigger, and so does using eyeliner, and plenty of mascara. Smoky eyes, especially when done with your favorite matte brown shadow, can really open up your peepers. What’s important to remember when applying eyeshadow is that darker matte shadows have a tendency to “push back”, while shimmery powders “bring it forward.” Using this to our advantage can help give our eyes a more defined look. Apart from this, creating a shaped, full brow frames the face, and gives it depth and character. Maintaining the thickness of your eyebrows while removing stray hairs that make them lose their shape can ultimately help give chinita eyes that extra definition. Also, it also makes you look younger.

But apart from my tried-and-tested techniques, I’ve recently discovered a new way of creating bigger eyes that’s especially made for chinita. It’s called the Ultimate Eye Opening by Japanese makeup brand Shu Uemura. This is based on the brand’s unique expertise on Asian eyes, and is easily done in five steps.

Step one: Prep. Apparently, prepping your skin for makeup is just as important as the makeup itself. Adding this step not only ensures that your makeup lasts longer, it also promises to give eyes a firmer, brighter contour. For this, Shu Uemura recommends Tsuya Skin Youth Infusing Eye Concentrate. This recently launched eye essence has a light, gel-cream formula that creates a smooth surface. It prepares skin for makeup by moisturizing skin. At the same time, it allows the eyeshadow to adhere better on skin, giving it a long-lasting effect.

Step two: Color. This is where eyeshadow comes into play. As I mentioned, matte, darker colors will push back and create shadow, while light and shimmery will lift and highlight the area. What you want to do here is apply the shadow from your lash line, blending outward until just under your brow bone. Then, blend until the shadow fades softly outward. You want to go for a beautiful gradation of color to get that 3D effect. For this, you will need Shu Uemura Pressed Eye Shadows.

Step three: Curl. For this, you will need an eyelash curler. Shu Uemura’s newest innovation called the S Curler fits any eye shape and offers precise application so that you can really curl your lashes without pinching skin. Its ergonomic design—small structure without sidebars—really does its job.

Step four: Define. Eyeliner can really make eyes appear bigger. It works by creating the illusion of a thicker lash line (it also makes lashes look thicker). Using a gel liner is ideal, as it lasts longer and is easier to apply. Shu Uemura has a Lasting Soft Gel Pencil that delivers soft, smooth and lasting gel liner on to the lash line. A plus is that it’s in pencil form, so it’s much easier to use and control. It is also waterproof, does not smudge and is available in M Black and M Brown.

Step five: Open. The last step is to apply mascara. Again, I have to stress how important lashes are if you want to create a defined eye. You’ll want one that will lengthen lashes and thicken them as well. The Tokyo Lash Mascara has both these qualities, as it delivers lacquer-black lashes. It has a new, crisscross brush that catches even the shortest lashes, and is long-lasting and smudge-proof. Tip: to stretch out mascara, apply in rolling motion to create the cleanest finish.

This article was published in the Lifestyle Section of the Philippine Daily Inquirer on January 31, 2014.